Sarson's Worcester Sauce - 150ml

Worcester sauce is one of those things British cooking quietly leans on. It goes into the mince for a shepherd's pie, onto the cheese before it goes under the grill, and into the gravy when it needs a bit more backbone. Nobody writes it on the recipe card. Everybody uses it.

People in Canada look for it by name because the name is what they remember. Sarson's is the brand on the table in the chip shop, and seeing it on a bottle of Worcester sauce feels like finding a familiar face in a new town.

It comes in a 150ml bottle, which is plenty when you are adding it a dash at a time. Keep the lid on and it sits happily in the cupboard until the next round of cheese on toast. Shake it first, pour slowly, and resist the urge to drown things (or don't, it is your toast).

Sarson's is best known for its malt vinegar, and the two make a tidy pair on the shelf: one for the chips, one for everything that goes under the grill. Add a loaf of proper bread and some strong cheddar and you have tea sorted.