HP Fruity - 470g

On a British café table the bottles stand in a row: red, brown and, if the café knows its regulars, HP Fruity. It is the brown sauce for people who like the idea of brown sauce but want it a touch milder, and it has held that spot for years.

People in Canada search for it because a fry-up is a fussy thing. The eggs can be anybody's eggs, but the sauce has to be the one from home, and after a few years away you notice when it is missing from the table.

The 470g bottle suits a household that does breakfast at the weekend, which is every household worth visiting. It lives in the cupboard until it is opened, and after that you follow the label. Give it a shake, then put it on a pie, stir a spoonful into gravy or mince, or simply go round the plate.

Plenty of people keep it beside a bottle of the original HP Sauce, one for them and one for whoever disagrees. It tends to leave the shop with baked beans, proper teabags and a pack of bacon waiting at home.