HP Fruity Sauce - 255g

On a British table, brown sauce is as standard as salt and pepper. HP is the name on the bottle in most cafés, and Fruity is the one for people who love brown sauce but want it a touch fruitier. A full English without one or the other looks unfinished.

Search for it from Canada and you are usually chasing one particular meal: the Saturday fry-up, the bacon butty after a long week, the plate that tastes like a café on a wet seaside morning. It is a small thing to miss, right up until you are standing over a plate of sausages without it.

It is a proper table bottle, small enough to sit by the plate and big enough to survive a weekend of fry-ups. Shake it, pour it, then have the usual argument about how much is too much. There is no right answer, only the amount you were going to use anyway.

It rarely travels alone. People tend to add a tin of beans, a pack of crumpets or a box of proper tea to the basket, and anyone sharing a kitchen with an original HP loyalist may want both bottles to keep the peace at breakfast.